Pengaruh Suhu dan Lama Pencelupan Benang Katun pada Pewarnaan Alami dengan Ekstrak Gambir (Uncaria gambir Roxb)

Failisnur Failisnur, Sofyan Sofyan


Natural dyes re-extraction of raw gambier was used as a dye on cotton yarn. Al2 (SO4)3, FeSO4 and CaO was used as a mordant with post-mordanting method. Dyeing process was done through a few stages; re-extracting of raw gambier, bleaching of cotton yarn, dyeing with gambier solution extract, mordanting with post-mordanting method, and finishing. Dyeing process was carried out at temperature of 30, 50, and 70⁰C with dyeing time 5, 15, and 25 minutes. Analysis of tannin content and particle size was conducted on raw gambier, gambier solution extract and remaining of dyeing solution. Cotton yarn which had been dyed with extracts of gambier evaluated its tensile strength, elongation, shrink yarn, intensity, color direction, and color fastness. The result showed that the hidhest color streght was obtained at 70⁰C dyeing and 25 minutes dyeing time using CaO mordant. Color fastness to 40⁰C washing with the use of CaO modant was good (4). The value of rubbing and light fastness was good until very good (4-5) for all treatments. All treatments with the same mordant shown to have similar of color direction visually, however quantitatively each of sample had a different significant on intensity and direction of colors.


Pewarna alam gambir digunakan sebagai pewarna pada benang katun melalui  ekstraksi ulang dari gambir asalan.  Al2(SO4)3, FeSO4 dan CaO digunakan sebagai mordan dengan metoda pasca mordanting. Proses pencelupan dilakukan melalui tahapan; ekstraksi ulang gambir asalan, pengelantangan benang katun, pencelupan dengan larutan ekstrak gambir, pemordanan dengan metoda pasca mordanting, dan finishing. Proses pencelupan dilakukan pada suhu 30, 50 dan 70⁰C dengan lama pencelupan 5, 15 dan 25 menit.  Analisis kadar tanin dan ukuran partikel dilakukan terhadap gambir asalan, larutan ekstrak gambir dan larutan sisa pencelupan. Benang katun yang telah diwarnai dengan ekstrak gambir dievaluasi kekuatan tarik, mulur, mengkeret benang, intensitas, corak dan ketahanan luntur warnanya. Hasil penelitian didapatkan bahwa intensitas warna tertinggi terdapat pada pencelupan 70⁰C dan waktu pencelupan  25 menit dengan menggunakan mordan CaO. Ketahanan luntur warna terhadap pencucian 40⁰C dengan penggunaan mordan CaO bernilai baik (4).  Nilai ketahanan luntur warna terhadap penyeterikaan dan sinar matahari adalah baik sampai sangat baik (4-5) untuk semua pelakuan.  Semua perlakuan dengan mordan yang sama terlihat mempunyai arah warna yang sama secara visual, namun secara kuantitatif masing-masing memiliki perbedaan intensitas dan arah warna yang cukup signifikan.


Dyeing temperature; dyeing time; cotton yarn; gambier; dyeing

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