Pengaruh Suhu dan Lama Pencelupan Benang Katun pada Pewarnaan Alami dengan Ekstrak Gambir (Uncaria gambir Roxb)

Failisnur Failisnur, Sofyan Sofyan

Abstract


Natural dyes re-extraction of raw gambier was used as a dye on cotton yarn. Al2 (SO4)3, FeSO4 and CaO was used as a mordant with post-mordanting method. Dyeing process was done through a few stages; re-extracting of raw gambier, bleaching of cotton yarn, dyeing with gambier solution extract, mordanting with post-mordanting method, and finishing. Dyeing process was carried out at temperature of 30, 50, and 70⁰C with dyeing time 5, 15, and 25 minutes. Analysis of tannin content and particle size was conducted on raw gambier, gambier solution extract and remaining of dyeing solution. Cotton yarn which had been dyed with extracts of gambier evaluated its tensile strength, elongation, shrink yarn, intensity, color direction, and color fastness. The result showed that the hidhest color streght was obtained at 70⁰C dyeing and 25 minutes dyeing time using CaO mordant. Color fastness to 40⁰C washing with the use of CaO modant was good (4). The value of rubbing and light fastness was good until very good (4-5) for all treatments. All treatments with the same mordant shown to have similar of color direction visually, however quantitatively each of sample had a different significant on intensity and direction of colors.

ABSTRAK

Pewarna alam gambir digunakan sebagai pewarna pada benang katun melalui  ekstraksi ulang dari gambir asalan.  Al2(SO4)3, FeSO4 dan CaO digunakan sebagai mordan dengan metoda pasca mordanting. Proses pencelupan dilakukan melalui tahapan; ekstraksi ulang gambir asalan, pengelantangan benang katun, pencelupan dengan larutan ekstrak gambir, pemordanan dengan metoda pasca mordanting, dan finishing. Proses pencelupan dilakukan pada suhu 30, 50 dan 70⁰C dengan lama pencelupan 5, 15 dan 25 menit.  Analisis kadar tanin dan ukuran partikel dilakukan terhadap gambir asalan, larutan ekstrak gambir dan larutan sisa pencelupan. Benang katun yang telah diwarnai dengan ekstrak gambir dievaluasi kekuatan tarik, mulur, mengkeret benang, intensitas, corak dan ketahanan luntur warnanya. Hasil penelitian didapatkan bahwa intensitas warna tertinggi terdapat pada pencelupan 70⁰C dan waktu pencelupan  25 menit dengan menggunakan mordan CaO. Ketahanan luntur warna terhadap pencucian 40⁰C dengan penggunaan mordan CaO bernilai baik (4).  Nilai ketahanan luntur warna terhadap penyeterikaan dan sinar matahari adalah baik sampai sangat baik (4-5) untuk semua pelakuan.  Semua perlakuan dengan mordan yang sama terlihat mempunyai arah warna yang sama secara visual, namun secara kuantitatif masing-masing memiliki perbedaan intensitas dan arah warna yang cukup signifikan.


Keywords


Dyeing temperature; dyeing time; cotton yarn; gambier; dyeing

Full Text:

PDF

References


Bechtold, T., Turcanu, A., Ganglberger, E., Geissler, S. 2003. Natural dyes in modern textile dyehouses — how to combine experiences of two centuries to meet the demands of the future?. Journal of Cleaner Production 11; 499–509.

Baliarsingh, S., Behera, P.C., Jena, J., Das, T., Das, N.B. 2015. UV reflectance attributed direct correlation to colour strength and absorbance of natural dyed yarn with respect to mordant use and their potential antimicrobial efficacy. Journal of Cleaner Production 102; 485-492.

Cristea, D & Vilarem, G. 2006. Improving light fastness of natural dyes on cotton yarn. Dyes and Pigments (70) 238-245

Cumming JW, Giles CH, McEachran AE. 1956. A study of the photochemistry of dyes on proteins and other substrates. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 1956;72:373-80

Erkan, GK., Kemal, S, Kaya S. 2014. Dyeing of white and indigo dyed cotton fabrics with Mimosa tenuiflora extract. Journal of Saudi Chemical Society (18), 139–148.

Fengel, D., Wegener, G. 1995. Kayu: Kimia ultrastruktur reaksi–reaksi. Gadjah Mada University Press. Yogyakarta.

Failisnur dan Yeni, G. 2013. Stabilisasi limbah cair hasil pengolahan gambir dan aplikasinya sebagai pewarna pada kain sutera. Jurnal Biopropal Industri, Vol.4 (1) 7-16.

Failisnur dan Sofyan. 2014. Sifat tahan luntur dan intensitas warna kain sutera dengan pewarna alam gambir (Uncaria gambir Roxb) pada kondisi pencelupan dan jenis fiksator yang berbeda. Jurnal Litbang Industri Vol.4 (1) ;1-8.

Kulkarni, S.S., Gokhale, A.V., Bodake, U.M., Pathade, G.R. 2011. Cotton dyeing with natural dye extracted from pomegranate (Punica granatum) peel. Universal Journal of Environmental Research and Technology. Volume1, Issue 2: 135-139.

Mirjalili, M & Karimi,L. 2013. Extraction and Characterization of Natural Dye from Green Walnut Shells and Its Use in Dyeing Polyamide: Focus on Antibacterial Properties. Journal of Chemistry. Volume 2013, Article ID 375352, 9 pages.

Mohajit. 2001. Introduction to environmental engineering. Lecture Note for S-1 program at Civil Engineering Department – Institute of Technology Bandung (ITB), 161 pp.

Moiz, A., Ahmed, M.A., Kausar, N., Ahmed, K., Sohail, M. 2014. Study the effect of metal ion on wool fabric dyeing with tea as natural dye. Journal of Saudi Chemical Society 14, 69–76.

Mongkholrattanasit, R., Krystufek, J., Wiener, J. & Vikova, M. 2011. Dyeing, fastness, and UV protection properties of silk and wool fabrics dyed with eucalyptus leaf extract by exhaustion process. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe Journal, Vol. 19 No. 3: 94-99.

Mongkholrattanasit, R., Klaichoi,C., Rungruangkitkrai, N., Punrattanasin, N., Sriharuksa, Nakpathom, M. 2013. Dyeing Studies with Eucalyptus, Quercetin, Rutin, and Tannin: A Research on effect of ferrous sulfate mordant. Journal of Textiles Vol. 2013, 1-7.

Oladoja, Y.B Alliu, A.E Ofomaja, I.E. Unuabonah. 2011. Synchronous attenuation of metal ions and colour in aqua stream using tannin–alum synergy J.Desalination 271 (2011) 34–40.

Punrattanasin, N., Nakpathom, M., Somboon, B., Narumol, N., Rungruangkitkrai, N., Mongkholrattanasit, R. 2013. Silk fabric dyeing with natural dye from mangrove bark (Rhizophora apiculata Blume) extract. J. Ind.Crop Prod. 49, 122-129.

Sofyan, Failisnur, Salmariza, Marlusi, dan Muhardi. 2012. Peningkatan teknologi proses pencelupan kain sutera dengan memanfaatkan limbah cair gambir. Laporan Penelitian Baristand Industri Padang.

Sofyan, Failisnur, Marlusi, dan Sulastri. 2014. Pengembangan gambir sebagai pewarna alam pada proses pembatikan. Laporan Penelitian Baristand Industri Padang.

Sofyan, Failisnur, dan Salmariza. 2015. Pengaruh perlakuan limbah dan jenis mordan kapur, tawas, dan tunjung terhadap mutu pewarnaan kain sutera dan katun menggunakan limbah cair gambir (uncaria gambir Roxb). Jurnal Litbang Industri Vol.5 (2); 79-89.

Sydjaroen, Y., Haubner, R., Wurtele, G., Hull, W.E., Erben, G., Spiegelhalder, B., Changbumrung, S., Bartsch, H., Owen, R.W., 2005. Isolation and structure elucidation of phenolic antioxidants from tamarind (Tamarindus indica) seeds and pericap. Food and Chemical Technology 43, 1673–1682.

Tayade, PB., & Adivarekar, RV. 2013. Adsorption kinetics and thermodynamic study of Cuminum cyminum L. dyeing on silk. Journal of Environmental Chemical Engineering 1 (2013) 1336–1340.

Vankar, P. 2000. Chemistry of Natural Dyes. Resonance (General Article). Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur India.

Vankar, PS., Shanker, R., and Verma, A. 2007. Enzymatic natural dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics without metal mordants. Journal of Cleaner Production (15) 1441-1450.

Wanyama, PAG., B.T. Kiremire, P. Ogwok and J.S. Murumu. 2010. The Effect of Different Mordants on Strength and Stability of Colour Produced from Selected Dye-Yielding Plants in Uganda. International Archive of Applied Sciences and Technology, Vol 1 [2] 81 – 92.

Yeni, G. 2015. Rekayasa proses nanoenkapsulasi konsentrat katekin dari gambir (Uncaria gambir Roxb.) sebagai antioksidan [Disertasi] Pasca Sarjana, Institut Pertanian Bogor.

Yusuf, M., Shahid, M., Khan, M.A., Khan, S.A., Ali Khan, M., Mohammad, F. 2015. Dyeing studies with henna and madder: A research on effect of tin (II) chloride mordant. Journal of Saudi Chemical Society (2015) 19, 64–72

Zao, Qi, Hao Feng, H., Wang, L. 2014. Dyeing properties and color fastness of cellulase-treated flax fabric with extractives from chestnut shell. Journal of Cleaner Production. (80 ) 197-203.




DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.24960/jli.v6i1.716.25-37

Refbacks

  • There are currently no refbacks.




Copyright (c) 2016 Failisnur, Sofyan


Our journal indexed by:




Copyright © Baristand Industri Padang, 2015. Powered By OJS

Theme design credited to MEV edited by JLI

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License