Biomordan gambir pada pewarnaan kain viskos menggunakan ekstrak pewarna dari limbah kulit jengkol (Archidendron jiringa)

F Failisnur, S Sofyan, S Silfia, Salmariza Sy, A Ardinal

Abstract


Biomordan merupakan mordan alam yang berfungsi untuk meningkatkan afinitas zat warna terhadap serat dan membangkitkan warna dalam proses pencelupan. Pemanfaatan gambir sebagai biomordan adalah salah satu terobosan baru dalam pemanfaatan komoditi potensi lokal yang dapat menghasilkan kain berwarna yang ramah lingkungan.  Penelitian dilakukan dengan membandingkan antara proses pewarnaan tanpa menggunakan mordan, pemakaian biomordan gambir pada konsentrasi 5, 10, dan 15%, serta pemakaian biomordan gambir yang dikombinasikan dengan mordan kimia CaO. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan terdapat komponen fenol pada ekstrak limbah kulit jengkol yang dapat memberikan warna pada kain viskos. Hasil pewarnaan meggunakan biomordan gambir dapat meningkatkan nilai intensitas warna. Sifat ketahanan luntur warna terhadap pencucian 40⁰C meningkat dari 3 (cukup) dan 4 (baik) menjadi 4-5 (baik sampai sangat baik) serta terhadap pengaruh cahaya dari 3-4 (cukup sampai baik) menjadi 4 (baik).

Abstract

The biomordant is a natural mordant that functions to increase the affinity of dyes to the fiber and generate color in the dyeing process. The use of gambier as a biomordant is one of inovation in the utilization of local potential commodities that can produce eco-friendly coloring fabrics. The study was conducted by comparing the dyeing process without using mordant, the use of biomordant gambier at a concentration of 5, 10, and 15%, as well as the use of biomordant gambier was combined with CaO chemical mordant. The results showed that there were phenol components in the extract of dogfruit pod waste which could give color to the viscous fabric. The coloring results using gambier biomordant could increase the color intensity value. The color fastness characteristics of washing 40oC increased from 3 (fairly good) and 4 (good) to 4-5 (good to very good) and to the fastness of light raised from 3-4 (fairly good to good) to 4 (good).


Keywords


biomordan; gambir; kain viskos; ekstrak kulit jengkol

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References


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DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.24960/jli.v8i2.4324.77-82

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